If you're a sucker for a charming market town, particularly one that boasts independent boutiques, an artsy atmosphere, and a bakery that's worth the journey. Cardigan (or Aberteifi in Welsh) checks all these boxes. Situated on the western coast of Wales, this historic port town is often bypassed, but it truly deserves more attention.

It serves as the entry point to the Teifi Valley and both the Ceredigion and Pembrokeshire coastal paths, making it an ideal hub for exploring this stunning coastal region. Senior journalist Portia Jones took a trip to this gorgeous town, and safe to say she'll be returning. Cardigan holds the title of the second-largest town in Ceredigion. It's a cultural powerhouse, having evolved from a significant 18th-century Atlantic seaport into a trendy, artistic haven filled with theaters and galleries.

Portia said: "Cardigan is the second-largest town in Ceredigion. It packs a punch culture-wise, having transcended from a significant 18th-century Atlantic seaport to a swish, artsy enclave with theatres and galleries. It's fast becoming one of my favourite spots for a weekend break for excellent eats, coastal walks and a spot of culture.

As I'm now in my history era, it's also grabbed my attention with its rich heritage and handsome stone castle. Found on the bend of the River Teifi, Cardigan has a long and varied history."

Henry VIII granted Cardigan its charter in 1543; by the 18th century, it had become the most important seaport in southern Wales. It boasted a bustling herring and shipbuilding industry, and its merchant fleet transported fish, slate, bricks, bark for tanning, corn, and ale.

The town's heritage is also reflected in its varied architecture, where you can still spot Georgian buildings, including the restored Castle House and original 17th-century arches.

Today, it boasts a vibrant small-town atmosphere featuring boutique shops, an independent bakery, a celebrated hotel, and marked coastal trails that lead you along the stunning shoreline.

Despite the bustling community's numerous attractions, it hasn't achieved the recognition of popular tourist destinations like Tenby or the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park.

This might be because the Cardigan Bay region remains among Wales's most overlooked coastal stretches, nestled between the attention-grabbing splendor of Pembrokeshire and the Llyn Peninsula. In 2023, Time Out magazine actually named its primary town, Cardigan, the "most underrated" destination in west Wales.

Here, visitors can witness Wales in its most genuine form, darting between hidden coves to observe dolphins, hiking the shoreline trail and enjoying steaming fish and chips in quaint fishing communities.

The comparative isolation of Ceredigion and its communities' proud, determined spirit have historically established this coastline as a bastion of Welsh language and heritage. Here, travelers can explore historic fortresses, browse for regional handicrafts, and sample local fare at culinary festivals.

Cardigan serves as the primary hub in this region and is an excellent base for exploring the Ceredigion coast. Known as the birthplace of the Eisteddfod, Wales's premier cultural festival, the town has long been a center for storytelling, music, and art.

Stroll through its streets, and you'll discover quaint cafes, pubs, and a flourishing array of independent shops and businesses.

The beautifully restored Cardigan Castle, the first stone castle constructed by a Welshman and the site of the inaugural Eisteddfod in 1176, sits at the heart of the town.

This ancient Norman stronghold, initially rebuilt in 1244, underwent a £12 million makeover in 2015, restoring its status as the town's crowning jewel.

With a history that spans over 900 years, the Castle has endured numerous fierce power battles between Wales and England. Today, it stands as a lively heritage site boasting a museum, restaurant, open-air concert venue, and Grade II-listed pleasure gardens.

Per Discover Ceredigion, the Castle also holds a cultural significance. Lord Rhys hosted the first recorded Eisteddfod, a festival of music and poetry, to commemorate the Castle's completion.

This competitive arts festival is a uniquely Welsh tradition that thrives locally and wherever Welsh communities are found.

Portia said: "After stomping the castle grounds, I always head for my favourite cafe spot - Crwst. This swish Cardigan cafe and deli has garnered a cult following for its banging brunch and bakery items and has also caught the eye of food writers.

Founded by husband and wife Osian and Catrin Jones, it is a swish 80-seater cardigan cafe and deli that attracts customers from miles around.

Five years ago, a married couple decided to pack in their jobs and make a living out of what they loved doing the most: baking and drinking coffee. Crwst is the happy, bricks-and-mortar result of this foodie journey."

Following their 2018 debut, this enterprising couple has expanded their operation and culinary brand, securing a second location at Poppit Sands at the beginning of the Pembrokeshire coastal trail, where they offer Crwst's most sought-after pastries, frozen treats and beverages.

The Cardigan establishment remains consistently crowded after earning recognition in the Good Food Guide. Visitors flock there for its delectable meals and freshly prepared baked items, featuring sourdough breads, brioche donuts, and cinnamon spirals.

The Cardigan venue also presents an appetizing brunch selection with offerings spanning from harissa halloumi sandwiches to pancake towers and Turkish-style eggs, earning rave critiques from culinary journalists.

Portia's recommendation is the french toast. She said: "My personal favourite, though, is the rum and Banana French Toast, loaded with brule banana streaky bacon and topped with creamy Barti Rum Caramel ice cream. It's sweet and salty goodness with a lovely rum kick, which is exactly what you want at 10 a.m."

Beyond baked goods, there's an abundance of dining options in and around town, as The Financial Times has dubbed Ceredigion a 'hotbed of culinary wizardry'.

The article spotlighted the wide array of high-quality dining choices available in the county and the food scene in and around Cardigan town. This includes bakeries like Crwst and Bara Menyn, the Brat supperclub at Ffrorest Ffarm, Caws Teifi, and Llys Meddyg, located just over the border in Newport, Pembrokeshire.

Shopping is another highlight of the area. While it's not a massive scene, Cardigan boasts a small assortment of shops and boutiques offering crafts, surf apparel, and books.

Most stores and businesses are situated along or just off High Street and further up on Pendre, with several shops at Black Lion Mews off the main street.

Cardigan's indoor market is the retail centerpiece, located in the historic Guildhall building. Originally serving as the town's meat and dairy marketplace, the two-level market hall is now a bustling shopping hub for locals and tourists alike.

With over 50 stalls run by independent local traders, it offers an impressive variety of goods and gifts.

Despite its small size, Cardigan boasts a vibrant arts scene with two theaters and multiple music venues scattered throughout the town, including the Castle grounds. Theatr Mwldan Arts Centre, located in the heart of Cardigan, is an impressive cinema complex featuring three fully digital screens, making it the only truly independent multiplex in Wales.

The center also houses a gallery and cafe, and serves as the headquarters for Gwyl Fawr, the town's Eisteddfod, which hosts several concerts and competitions in music, literature, and dance.

In addition to Mwldan, St Mary's, a Grade II-listed church dating back to the 12th century, serves as the primary venue for the November Other Voices festival concerts, featuring contemporary Welsh musicians of international renown. A variety of smaller venues, ranging from cellar bars to art galleries and bakeries, contribute to the lively atmosphere along the festival's music trail around town.

Nearby, Small World is an environmentally conscious theater company that produces giant puppets, public events, and art commissions. This wildly creative, near-zero-carbon space hosts family-friendly events such as children's theater shows featuring live music and puppetry.

For a truly memorable experience, Cardigan Castle hosts a variety of performances. The Castle's stunning surroundings provide the perfect backdrop for choirs, bands, opera performances, and concerts.

Beyond the town, there's abundant exploration opportunities, as Cardigan Bay extends over 129 miles, from Bardsey Island off the Llyn Peninsula in the north to the rugged headland of Strumble Head in the south. It hosts Europe's largest dolphin population, and its nutrient-rich waters serve as a sanctuary for wildlife, including seals and seabirds.

For wildlife enthusiasts, this represents Europe's premier destination for dolphin sightings, particularly when gliding across the waves on an exhilarating RIB excursion through the bay's turbulent waters.

You can reserve an affordable Bay Explorer boat excursion with local experts, 'A Bay to Remember'. Launching from nearby St Dogmaels, this hour-long adventure whisks you along the coastline on high-speed RHIBs, where your experienced captain will scan vigilantly for wildlife.

This ranked among Portia's top wildlife expeditions, and she captured numerous stunning photographs of seals and seabirds.

Racing across the waves, you'll probably observe herring gulls and razorbills soaring through the sky and perching on rocky ledges. Your craft will also cruise past Mwnt, a sandy cove that's among Ceredigion's premier locations for dolphin encounters, so maintain a sharp watch for those characteristic dorsal fins cutting through the water.

These speedy boat excursions also access isolated, stone-covered coves where Atlantic grey seals bask leisurely on the rocks. These permanent residents are easily identifiable due to their unique heads.

Their scientific name actually means "sea pig with a hooked nose."

The Ceredigion Coast Path, a 60-mile stretch of the 870-mile Wales Coast Path, is a hiker's dream. It offers some of the most diverse landscapes and views on the entire route, from soft dunes and sandy coves to rugged cliffs and windswept headlands.

This marked path can be divided into seven manageable sections, each ending in a town or village with accommodation and transport options.

You can also choose to tackle the full route over a week or select shorter sections, such as New Quay to Aberaeron or the 11.7-mile stretch from Cardigan to Aberporth.

Notable sights along the way include the dramatic Mwnt headland, Birds Rock's birdlife, the tidal island of Ynys Lochtyn, and the vast Ynyslas dunes.

Wildlife sightings are frequent; keep an eye out for bottlenose dolphins, seals, and even porpoises along the pebble-strewn cliffs and coves.

The trail begins in Cardigan at its southern end, where the Ceredigion and Pembrokeshire Coast Paths converge. This historic town, once the largest port on Wales's west coast, lends its name to Cardigan Bay.

A bronze otter statue, standing next to a quayside wall inscribed with poetry by local writer Ceri Wyn Jones, marks the official start of the route.

As you depart from town, the path follows the north bank of the River Teifi, passing farmland and the probable site of the original wooden Cardigan Castle, hastily constructed to control the river and sea access.

The journey continues past the Cardigan Golf Club and the Victorian-era Cliff Hotel, once part of an ambitious plan to transform this coastline into a competitor for Brighton.

From there, it's a scenic clifftop walk toward Aberporth, offering sweeping sea views and a coastline peppered with caves, sea stacks, and rock formations bearing intriguing local names like Hatling Bigni, Pen Peles, and Pencestyll. These rocky landmarks were once crucial reference points for sailors navigating this untamed stretch of coast.

Planning to stay for the weekend?

The town and surrounding area offer a variety of accommodations, including hotels, bed and breakfasts, cottages, and campsites. You can compare prices and make reservations on Airbnb and booking.com.

Portia's top hotel pick is conveniently located right in the heart of town. Nestled on the riverside in Cardigan, The Albion Aberteifi combines nautical charm with maritime design.

Just four months after its grand opening, The Times and The Sunday Times named it the Best Place to Stay in Wales 2023. This stylish location is the latest venture from the team behind Forest.

Each en-suite room resembles a captain's cabin with reclaimed wood-paneled walls, 150 year old oak floors, Welsh wool blankets, custom furniture, and river views from every window. Breakfast is served in the laid-back resident lounge, where you'll also find cocktails in the evening and coffee and cake during the day.

Yr Odyn restaurant, known for its weekend dining in the guest lounge, is soon relocating to a stunning new riverside location nearby. Just across the river, a short stroll will take you to fforest's Pizzatipi and the snug Smwglin pub.